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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – London – Day 18 – Tower Bridge & Castle

Two icons sitting side by side, both offering plenty of see from a historical standpoint, probably most of a day for most people. First the bridge, near the newest and most exotic architecture imaginable:

The bridge is relatively new, but the Tower, what can you say? Steeped in English history, it’s a big, old, exciting castle. The tour lets you travel through it from one end to the other. In addition to the usual dungeon and torture chamber, the Tower of London also housed a king’s collection of zoo animals at some point in history, including cats of all sizes, monkeys, elephants, and even polar bears.

 
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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – London – Day 17 – Picadilly Circus & Trafalgar Square

Much like New York’s Times Square, Picadilly Circus is the heart of entertainment in London. A large roundabout with a park, fountain and seats inside a circle surrounded by shopping all create an interesting mix of people, buses, taxis, and automobiles.

We’ve tried to avoid the “American Embassy” – McDonalds – as much as possible, but sometimes you just gotta have a burger and fries. There is no large or super size in the U.K. – their large is our medium and their regular is our small. This must have been a quiet day, but supposedly all these registers are working at one time more often than one would believe! The other interesting thing is that most restrooms – toilets here – are in the basement or the upper floors of most stores, restaurants and pubs. A lot of them also charge 20p (20 pence) to use them.

Another hot spot for the people to mix is in front of the Art Museum on Trafalgar Square. Sidewalk painters work near live bands, homeless people mix with the crowds looking for spare change, and everywhere is an electricity missing at home.
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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – London – Days 15 -16

What can one say about London? One of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world, and one of the largest. We stayed in a small hotel in a multi-ethnic neighborhood near a bus stop. Hard to find a true English man or woman among the various races who have come to seek out a living. All the problems we have in the U.S. are here, and then some, simply due to the numbers. The city itself is fascinating, so I’ll break my pictures into smaller groups.

The first pair are the airport in Dublin when we left to fly to England. It’s now undergoing major renovation so it can handle the increased loads of international travel.

The day we flew was cloudy all the way across the Irish Sea between Ireland and England, and then all of a sudden began to break as we headed into London City Airport.

Not on the standard tours of any company is the Sherlock Holmes Museum on Baker Street. We got there just before a school group, and managed to get through most of the museum before they were allowed to enter. This was also the first attempt at the London bus system. We got better, but the learning curve is steep!

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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Dublin, Ireland – Day 14

Dublin is a young, vibrant city with activity everywhere. As the largest city in Ireland, it has everything a large city is expected to have, and more. The took a hop-on hop-off bus and toured most of the neighborhoods in Dublin, spending time in a few select areas. These are typical cityscapes highlighting many of the the things we saw:

We ended the evening at a pub that had to be owned by a relative of some sort:


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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Belfast, Northern Ireland – Day 13

Day 13 – Belfast, Northern Ireland

Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland, suffered the worst of “The Troubles,” the well-known conflict between the Protestants and Catholics in Ireland. Over several decades, more than 3000 people from both sides died. To the outsider, the animosity between the two groups is not seen, but to older Belfast residents, the causes remain just under the surface. At the time of the so-called ceasefire, a wall was constructed between the Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods. One section, over 1,000 feet long, is called the Peace Wall and is covered with dozens of hand-painted murals, one of the main attractions for tourists. Another landmark of The Troubles is the Hotel Europa, arguably the most-bombed building in the world, the victim of nearly 40 explosions over the years.

 

Prosperity seems to be everywhere, with cranes visible all over the city and all phases of construction evident. The Victorian tower with the copper spire is the hallmark of a new indoor shopping mall. The newest and best sit side-by-side with 18th Century beauties like Queen Victoria’s Opera House below. The tallest Celtic Cross in the world is on a church, with a modern stainless steel spire just as tall as the cross. And, yet, other salvageable and historic buildings in the city wait for someone to care about them and re-build.

     

While we waited downtown for a tour bus, a Catholic parade scheduled for mid-morning generated an enormous amount of police presence to counter any Protestant violence that might erupt. In all, around 40 marchers and 10 protesters showed up, outnumbered several times by police and anti-terrorism forces.


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In an earlier post from Galway, I mentioned the “Euro and a half” store, similar to our dollar stores. Not to be outdone, the Belfasters have their own version, poundworld.

If you haven’t noticed yet, we love castles! Belfast was no exception, and had a beautiful castle and an attached garden that rivals some of the best in the world.

  

Tomorrow is a travel day between Belfast and Dublin, and nothing looks too exciting on the maps, so probably no big assortment of pictures. After a day wandering around Dublin, though, I’m sure we’ll have something to show you. The day after that, we’re off to London! Stay tuned!

Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Northern Ireland – Day 12

Day 12 – Northern Ireland

Instead of traveling straight to Belfast on an interior road, we decided to meander along the water and explore the rest of the Antrim Coast. Along the way, at a small town named Cushendall, we ran across a small cemetery across the street from the docks. Dates easily went back to the mid-1800’s, and also included a few newer ones. I love old cemeteries, maybe because my paternal grandparents, great-grandparents, and a few great aunts and uncles are buried in Riverside Cemetery in Commerce City.

If you can connect a person with a particular event, era or period in history, their life becomes fascinating, no matter how mundane it really may have been. I have transcribed tombstones and taken photographs, but I have never taken rubbings of them. This particular cemetery shows a lot of damage from the wind and blowing rain and salt water spray on some of the sandstone tombstones. Vital information is now, in many cases, lost forever. Cemetery records are, of course, only a part of the information a Genealogist attempts to collect on a person, but oftentimes that is all that is available to provide clue where else to look.


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Now we are in Belfast at a beautiful B&B with a huge room to spread out our bags and begin to re-pack a bit for our trip to London next week. We have purchased gifts and other items that must be carried, and we were already close to our weight limits.

 

Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Sligo into Northern Ireland – Day 11

Day 11 – Sligo, Ireland to Northern Ireland

Donegal, Ireland is on the other side of the peninsula from Sligo, and has more “history” than Sligo. Our first stop was the Donegal Famine Cemetery, a small plot of land near the river to enshrine those who perished in the Potato Famine of 1846-47. This single event caused more Irish emigration to the United States than any other in history. Families today speak of those who left and were never seen or heard from again after going to America. The interesting thing in this cemetery is the lack of headstones – this was a mass grave!

   

Donegal also has a significant role in the history of the royal family and the church. Built in 1474, the castle was occupied until the 1700’s, and then lay dormant until taken over by the country in the 1990’s and rebuilt. St. Patrick’s Church is a Catholic church named after the patron saint of Ireland.

Horses, cows and sheep are found on the farms in southern Ireland. Sheep become the animal of choice, and farms begin to spring up as you travel north. This time of year, the greening of the various plants brings subtle changes to the landscape each day.

The number one tourist attraction for many years in Northern Ireland has been the Giant’s Causeway. The Antrim Coast provided the perfect location for Finn MacCool to built a stone causeway from Northern Ireland to Scotland. Ancient volcanic eruptions have resulted in geometrically-shaped basalt columns in a fairly small portion of the coastline. The scientific explanation makes sense, but that doesn’t take away any of the magic when you see it. The photos provided below are presented with no comments – enjoy them for what you feel them to be.

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To end the day before our dinner and last pint of the day, we visited Dunluce Castle, west of Bushmill. Dunluce, we are told, is a featured location in Game of Thrones. For me, it was another awakening, of sorts. Owners over the years included the Earls of Antrim, including the 5th Earl in the late-1700’s. A signboard at the castle gave me the name of the 5th Earl of Antrim in my personal database, previously called “UNK 5th of Antrim” and allowed me to identify his wife, as well, through Wikitree. I have added research into the Earls of Antrim to my To Do List, now that I also have links to them.

 

 

Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Galway – Day 9

Day 9 – Galway, Ireland

One of the main attractions to Galway, the largest western city in Ireland, is the shopping. City fathers have gone to great pains making it easy, and have blocked off several blocks in the City Centre as a pedestrian zone. A three-story inside shopping mall anchors the Eyre Square, and several streets with large and small shops snake out from there.

Back to bathrooms (restrooms, toilets, john, whatever…..) for a moment. At several locations in the shopping zone, we found turnstiles on the way to the facilities, each charging 20 cents Euro to pass. This particular one was in the bus station, but another one in the shopping mall had several people ready to rise up and protest. Lousy public relations for a shopping mall owner!

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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Cliffs of Moher – Day 8

Day 8 – Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

Not to be missed as you travel north in County Clare toward Galway, one of the larger cities in Ireland, the Cliffs of Moher is the number one site for nature-based tourism in the country. There is a walking path and numerous observation points along the tops of each peninsula. One ends with a square fire tower built by Napoleon, while the other has a castle-like tower called O’Brien’s Tower (there’s that ancestral name again!). When the weather is bad in the Atlantic on its way to Ireland, the Cliffs are the first to experience any major problems, acting as a sort of early warning system.

Just as an aside, the toilets (restrooms to us) are UNISEX. It’s a bit unnerving to enter a bathroom and wait for a woman to come out. There are no wall urinals, and the stall doors go down to a few inches off the floor, but those are the only differences you notice. Looking for “Ladies” or “Gents” and finding “Unisex” is quite a surprise, no matter where you’re from.
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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Booleens, Castlemaine to Galway – Day 7

Day 7 – Booleens, Castlemaine to Galway, Irelandn

The B&B we stayed in when we traveled the Ring of Kerry yesterday would have been ideal for a trip around the Dingle Peninsula just to the north. Alas, our time didn’t allow a trip on both. We did get a special thrill, however, when we met and talked with Florence O’Sullivan, a 4th Generation blacksmith. Most of my bachelor’s degree was in metalworking, including forging, welding, heat treating, tool making, and similar skills, and then I taught all of those, and more, for over 20 years.

Florence has been at it since age 16, and is still going strong (although slower) in his early ninetie’s! Sad to say, there is no 5th Generation in the O’Sullivan family.

My great-grandfather was a blacksmith in Germany when he emigrated to America during the mid-1860’s. He was a jack-of-all-trades and made a comparatively good living for an immigrant with eight children.

   

The owner of The Anvil B&B became a friend in our two days there. Liz has owned the B&B nearly 20 years, and now she and her son run the bar and restaurant together. Even in the Spring, a supposedly slow time for tourism, she is full or nearly so every night.

Leaving Booleans, we headed for Limerick, Ireland, the second time we drove on an Irish Motorway. Not quite an Interstate highway, but better than the average road, the most interesting feature is that you drive for dozens of miles and pay 1.90 Euros (about $2.00) at the end. The normal section of E-470 we drive fairly often costs $2.90, but only covers about 8 miles. There’s something wrong here!

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The Bunratty Castle today is actually the fourth incantation of castle on or near the site. Originally a Viking encampment destroyed by Brian Boru, an early Irish king and an O’Brien ancestor, it was owned at various times by the MacDonald’s, MacCarthy’s, O’Briens (twice – note the three lions on the shields below), and for centuries was the seat of the Earl of Thomond. Given to the de Clare family (also ancestors) by King Richard III of England (another ancestor), it fell into disrepair when the last family moved into a new manor house. Eventually, the castle and property were taken over by an Irish national trust.

It’s uniqueness lies in the fact that all furnishings in the castle date from the 15th Century and are authentic to the period, if not to the castle itself. There is also a typical village of the time with several buildings set up to show how life was conducted back then.