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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Days 30-31 – Rosslyn Chapel & the Four Abbeys

We really like the castles found in the UK and Ireland, but we also like the abbeys, churches, cathedrals, and other old structures we come across. This is not to say we don’t like old homes, schools, government buildings, etc., as well. These types of structures is where the history of a nation is contained and, if they are taken car of and protected, they last for centuries so others can see them and study them later.

If you do any genealogical research at all, you find yourself wanting to know more about where your ancestors lived and how they lived. History, very quickly, becomes a hobby to go along with the genealogy, and you have to use them together to successfully find out what you’re looking for.

Rosslyn Chapel, south of Edinburgh, is one of importance to my and my research. It was instrumental in the movie “DaVinci Code,” with Tom Hanks, but that’s not why it’s important to me. I have identified several ancestors who lived and ruled in the area. More pictures are coming of Rosslyn because the carvings are different from those found in other buildings, and also different from each other. Nearly every window, doorway, pillar, etc. is unique from the others.

The four abbeys below important because they were near the border between Scotland and England, and suffered destruction because of their location. They were all magnificent in their own way, and instrumental in wielding religious and political power for their congregations. Built during the 12th Century during David I’s rule as King of Scotland, they were destroyed by King Henry VIII in the mid-14th Century during the Reformation.

Dryburgh Abbey was a huge complex, but is known today as the burial site of Sir Walter Scott, the famous Scottish writer. Scott’s family owned the land Dryburgh sat on, and eventually turned it over to a trust in Scotland to maintain. As a side note, Scott also has large statues in prominent locations in both Edinburgh and Glasgow.

Kelso Abbey was one of the closest to the border, so suffered some of the damage more than the others. To this day, the cemetery at Kelso also seemed to have less care than any other cemetery we have seen so far on our travls.

Lennelkirk Abbey is currently undergoing reconstruction, to a point. The basic shape of the front of the building is being redone, then the workmen will move to the walls so they can be reinforced, although not rebuilt complete. Lennelkirk is a parish that uses the cemetery for burials even today, with some of the oldest going back to the early 1800’s. One of the most notable is Sir Alec Douglas-Home, a British Prime Minister during President Johnson’s term in office.

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Melrose Abbey is another with some symbolic connections to conspiracy movies. It was also a huge complex, with what amounted to a small village operating within its walls. After Robert the Bruce successfully “removed” the English from Scotland in the 12th Century, he said that he wanted to be buried at Dunfermline Abbey near Edinburgh, but he also wanted his heart to be buried in Jerusalem. His heart went to the Middle East on a Crusade, but eventually was brought back to Melrose Abbey for burial. The round stone below marks its possible location in the cemetery at Melrose.

BONUS: Not an abbey, but a tower, Smailholm Tower was a watchtower-type structure near the Scottish border with England. It was eventually purchased by Sir Walter Scott’s family when they bought the farm it was on. It is said that Scott lived there a number of years and got inspiration from the solitude of the area.

 

 

 

Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Day 29 – St. Andrews, the Birthplace of Golf

St. Andrews, located in Fife, was the birthplace of golf. The Old Course, as it is called, is still available for play, but you make a reservation at some point way in the future (a year or more away), and then you plan your vacation around that date, not the other way around. To get to the clubhouse, or the National Golf Museum, you drive ACROSS the first tee, which runs right along the coastline.

Castle again, here, but only ruins again. Commanding views of the North Sea between the UK and Scandinavia, the castle was an important part of the UK’s defenses years ago, especially during the Second World War.

You have a castle, you almost have to have a cathedral, too, and St. Andrews does. The cathedral honored St. Andrews, the patron saint of Scotland.

The Scottish flag has a pair of white bars crossing each other in the center on a field of blue. The cross, at one time, symbolized the drawing and quartering of a prisoner. The plaque on the side of the building below displays that punishment exactly.
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Prince William (hopefully the next King of England!) and Kate Middleton were both students at St. Andrews when they met, according to popular legend, in the cafe below. No one else makes a similar claim, so it must be true, right?

Just an aside here about the British Royalty. Queen Elizabeth is loved dearly, and will be sorely missed when she dies. Her husband, Prince Philip, tends to put his foot in his mouth, much like Donald Trump at times, but the press here is different and tend to give him a lot of leeway with his foibles. Philip retired from public life recently, giving the press only the upcoming elections (and Donald Trump) to talk about.

To continue, Prince Charles, Elizabeth and Philip’s son, is not very popular, and if kings were elected, he would lose the election. He gained a lot of good feelings of the people when he married Princess Diana, but after her death and the revelation that he was seeing Camilla on the side, his popularity has taken a nose dive again. Charles would love to be king and, in fact, has been preparing for the role since the 1950’s when Elizabeth assumed the throne.

Standing in the wings, however, is Prince William, Charles’ oldest son with Diana. He was always popular, but got a big bump when he married Kate, and would be the best choice to most Britons if a successor for Elizabeth was needed. Prince Harry is OK, and does a lot of work with veterans, also making him popular, although not as popular as William. The Brits have thought long and hard about replacing Elizabeth some day, and have even passed legislation in Parliament that allows a variation from the traditional line of succession. It is only a matter to time to see what happens.

 

Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Day 28 – Edinburgh and the Castle

Once you get near the City Centre area of Edinburgh, you can’t miss the Castle. It sits on top of a large volcanic mountain in the middle of the city, and is visible from all directions. Sheer volcanic walls have protected it for centuries, making it one of a small group of castles that was never breached in time of war.

When Queen Elizabeth goes on vacation in England, she goes to Windsor. When she vacations in Scotland, which is much less often, she goes to her palace at Hollyrood House, west of the city along the bay.

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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Days 26 – 27 – Back to Wales, On To The Lakes

After leaving Central England and Shrewsbury, we went back into Wales, finally arriving at Conwy. Conwy is a coastal village with a busy port and, you guessed it, also has a castle.

 

The Lakes is a series of natural inland lakes in or near a couple national parks, each offering fishing, boating, hiking, cycling, and a range of other activities. The season is already showing signs of breaking records, due primarily to a dry, warmer-than-usual Spring. One village in the district, Grasmere, has a small church boasting the grave of William Wordsworth, a famous British author, and his family.


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The Lakes was the last part of England on our bus tour. On this day, we entered Scotland and made a pit stop at Gretna (Gretna Green), just across the border. Years ago, when young English couples wanted to marry but were not old enough, they came to Gretna because the marriage age in Scotland was lower.

Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Day 25 – Shrewsbury

We toured the cathedral town of Shrewsbury in Central England with the Town Crier, Martin Wood (picture later). Martin is 7′-2″ and can’t be missed in any crowd, but put him in a 17th Century long coat, pantaloons, and a tri-corner heart and he really draws attention. He is the official spokesman for the town, and has traveled to several foreign countries conducting his duties.

Shrewsbury is also known as the city in England with the most “black and white” houses. The amount of decoration showed the home owner’s wealth and social status, and there is no doubt Shrewsbury was a rich village, with nearly 700 such homes.

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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Day 24 – Bath and First Taste of Wales

Bath, England also has a huge cathedral like many other English cities, but it also has a long history with Roman history and ruins. Bath got its title for the natural springs of hot water welling up under the city. Since Roman times, there has been no slowdown in the water flow. The baths were one of the few things that mixed Romans of all social strata, allowing workmen, women, soldiers, government officials, and others to mingle in the therapeutic waters of the baths.

Cardiff, Wales is like many other cities in the UK in that it has survived hard times in the mid-2000’s and is now coming back faster than ever. Cardiff Bay, as shown in the pictures, was once much larger and came much further into the community it abuts. The new, modern Parliament building sits next to the old, red brick harbor offices.


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And, yes, Cardiff has a castle, too! A new outer wall protects the original, older castle in the center. This is another location that will make me do more research on my lines. I have connections to Welsh royalty in the 7th and 8th Centuries, but the Earl of Cardiff who built the castle may also be an ancestor. One of the unique features of the castle was the family tree that was designed and built into the ceiling struts and walls, again full of Stewarts and other names found in my database.

Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Day 23 – St. Michael’s Mount and Land’s End

St. Michael’s Mount is a huge abbey on an island off the southern coast of England west of Plymouth. We were told you must be invited to come to the island; otherwise there is no entry. In all, the Abbey has several buildings on the island, but none more impressive or beautiful than the Abbey itself.

Finally, we reached the end of England, at least the southwest end, well, kind of…..There are actually some uninhabited islands in the English Channel below Land’s End and the lighthouse below, but I guess they don’t count. Land’s End is “dead” this time of year, but in the Summer months it is an exciting place. Restaurants, amusement park rides and arcades, bars, gift shops and the other things that attract tourists come alive and make the small facility a busy one.

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Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Day 22 – Plymouth and Around Devon & Cornwall

Plymouth is a large city found on England’s southern coast near the western-most tip of the country (near Devon and Cornwall). On this day, we were not to go to the “ends” of England, however (that was reserved for the next day). Plymouth has a rich naval history and, while we were there, a British frigate, a training cruiser, and several Special Operations boats (similar to P.T. boats) were busy in the harbor.

Plymouth’s name should also be familiar to anyone who has studied American History. There is a Plymouth, Massachusetts, a small port on the Eastern Seaboard where a small ship landed in 1620 with a contingency of crew and passengers and established the first colony in what would become the United States. Plymouth, England, was the last place they saw when they left England, leaving from the “Mayflower steps” in the photos above.

Two major farm crops from England and the entire UK and Ireland, are potatoes (under the rows of plastic below) and the bright yellow plant, rapeseed, the source of canola oil. Instead of using the oil for cooking, its primary use is as an alternative to diesel fuel. In each country, six-lane motorways (like our Interstate highways) ultimately end up as narrow dual-lane access roads and even narrower country lanes lined on both sides by plant hedgerows or rock walls.

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This day was completed at an English country estate. Lanhydrock is now owned by a national trust, but demonstrates exactly what you see if you follow Downton Abbey or other British shows that feature the “aristocracy.” This one will require more research on my part, but the Duke of Clifden was related to the Stewarts, the traditional kings of England and Scotland, as well as other families that may cross with mine.

Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Salisbury – Day 21 – Stonehenge and Salisbury Town

We’re all familiar with visual images of people wandering around among the stones of Stonehenge. The truth is not quite the same, however. A highway runs by the site of Stonehenge no more than a few hundred yards away, but cannot reach the site. A shuttle bus from the Visitor Centre is the main way visitors access the site a few miles away.

Once you get to the site, you join a line (queue) of tourists going around the monument clockwise or counter-clockwise. Here you get a choice – which direction to go – but you can’t get any closer than about 50 yards. At certain times of the year (equinox and solstice, etc.) one can get a special ticket that gets them into the circle of stones, but you have to reserve it months or years in advance and pay a hefty price for it.

The closest village or town to Stonehenge is Salisbury, which seems to have a couple claims to fame. First is the HUGE cathedral (seat of a bishop or archbishop), but the second is much more exciting, at least to me.


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Salisbury also has one of only four copies of the Magna Carta, signed on June 17, 1215 by 25 English barons, forcing King John to give the populace basic human rights. They were severely punished by the church and the king for taking their stand.

Cyndie and I both have several of the Surety Barons and signatories of the Magna Carta in our lineages, making Salisbury a key stop on our itinerary.

Trip Diary – April/May 2017 – Windsor – Day 20 – Windsor Castle

When we go on a short vacation, we jump in our RV and go. Or we go to a hotel for a few days. Or we take a short flight to Vegas or something similar. When the Queen of England goes on vacation, she usually goes to Windsor Castle, her home just outside London. Legend has it that the 90+ year-old monarch drives herself around in a black Range Rover with minimal security. When she goes to Windsor, the royal flag goes up on the castle to show she’s in town.

When we joined our tour group, we think the flag was up. Later, however, the Union Jack was seen flying over the castle, so she may or may not have been in town at the same time. Windsor is a huge castle, and mere photos cannot do it justice, but here goes:

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