We really like the castles found in the UK and Ireland, but we also like the abbeys, churches, cathedrals, and other old structures we come across. This is not to say we don’t like old homes, schools, government buildings, etc., as well. These types of structures is where the history of a nation is contained and, if they are taken car of and protected, they last for centuries so others can see them and study them later.

If you do any genealogical research at all, you find yourself wanting to know more about where your ancestors lived and how they lived. History, very quickly, becomes a hobby to go along with the genealogy, and you have to use them together to successfully find out what you’re looking for.

Rosslyn Chapel, south of Edinburgh, is one of importance to my and my research. It was instrumental in the movie “DaVinci Code,” with Tom Hanks, but that’s not why it’s important to me. I have identified several ancestors who lived and ruled in the area. More pictures are coming of Rosslyn because the carvings are different from those found in other buildings, and also different from each other. Nearly every window, doorway, pillar, etc. is unique from the others.

The four abbeys below important because they were near the border between Scotland and England, and suffered destruction because of their location. They were all magnificent in their own way, and instrumental in wielding religious and political power for their congregations. Built during the 12th Century during David I’s rule as King of Scotland, they were destroyed by King Henry VIII in the mid-14th Century during the Reformation.

Dryburgh Abbey was a huge complex, but is known today as the burial site of Sir Walter Scott, the famous Scottish writer. Scott’s family owned the land Dryburgh sat on, and eventually turned it over to a trust in Scotland to maintain. As a side note, Scott also has large statues in prominent locations in both Edinburgh and Glasgow.

Kelso Abbey was one of the closest to the border, so suffered some of the damage more than the others. To this day, the cemetery at Kelso also seemed to have less care than any other cemetery we have seen so far on our travls.

Lennelkirk Abbey is currently undergoing reconstruction, to a point. The basic shape of the front of the building is being redone, then the workmen will move to the walls so they can be reinforced, although not rebuilt complete. Lennelkirk is a parish that uses the cemetery for burials even today, with some of the oldest going back to the early 1800’s. One of the most notable is Sir Alec Douglas-Home, a British Prime Minister during President Johnson’s term in office.

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Melrose Abbey is another with some symbolic connections to conspiracy movies. It was also a huge complex, with what amounted to a small village operating within its walls. After Robert the Bruce successfully “removed” the English from Scotland in the 12th Century, he said that he wanted to be buried at Dunfermline Abbey near Edinburgh, but he also wanted his heart to be buried in Jerusalem. His heart went to the Middle East on a Crusade, but eventually was brought back to Melrose Abbey for burial. The round stone below marks its possible location in the cemetery at Melrose.

BONUS: Not an abbey, but a tower, Smailholm Tower was a watchtower-type structure near the Scottish border with England. It was eventually purchased by Sir Walter Scott’s family when they bought the farm it was on. It is said that Scott lived there a number of years and got inspiration from the solitude of the area.

Bath, England also has a huge cathedral like many other English cities, but it also has a long history with Roman history and ruins. Bath got its title for the natural springs of hot water welling up under the city. Since Roman times, there has been no slowdown in the water flow. The baths were one of the few things that mixed Romans of all social strata, allowing workmen, women, soldiers, government officials, and others to mingle in the therapeutic waters of the baths.

Cardiff, Wales is like many other cities in the UK in that it has survived hard times in the mid-2000’s and is now coming back faster than ever. Cardiff Bay, as shown in the pictures, was once much larger and came much further into the community it abuts. The new, modern Parliament building sits next to the old, red brick harbor offices.

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And, yes, Cardiff has a castle, too! A new outer wall protects the original, older castle in the center. This is another location that will make me do more research on my lines. I have connections to Welsh royalty in the 7th and 8th Centuries, but the Earl of Cardiff who built the castle may also be an ancestor. One of the unique features of the castle was the family tree that was designed and built into the ceiling struts and walls, again full of Stewarts and other names found in my database.

Plymouth is a large city found on England’s southern coast near the western-most tip of the country (near Devon and Cornwall). On this day, we were not to go to the “ends” of England, however (that was reserved for the next day). Plymouth has a rich naval history and, while we were there, a British frigate, a training cruiser, and several Special Operations boats (similar to P.T. boats) were busy in the harbor.

Plymouth’s name should also be familiar to anyone who has studied American History. There is a Plymouth, Massachusetts, a small port on the Eastern Seaboard where a small ship landed in 1620 with a contingency of crew and passengers and established the first colony in what would become the United States. Plymouth, England, was the last place they saw when they left England, leaving from the “Mayflower steps” in the photos above.

Two major farm crops from England and the entire UK and Ireland, are potatoes (under the rows of plastic below) and the bright yellow plant, rapeseed, the source of canola oil. Instead of using the oil for cooking, its primary use is as an alternative to diesel fuel. In each country, six-lane motorways (like our Interstate highways) ultimately end up as narrow dual-lane access roads and even narrower country lanes lined on both sides by plant hedgerows or rock walls.

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This day was completed at an English country estate. Lanhydrock is now owned by a national trust, but demonstrates exactly what you see if you follow Downton Abbey or other British shows that feature the “aristocracy.” This one will require more research on my part, but the Duke of Clifden was related to the Stewarts, the traditional kings of England and Scotland, as well as other families that may cross with mine.

We’re all familiar with visual images of people wandering around among the stones of Stonehenge. The truth is not quite the same, however. A highway runs by the site of Stonehenge no more than a few hundred yards away, but cannot reach the site. A shuttle bus from the Visitor Centre is the main way visitors access the site a few miles away.

Once you get to the site, you join a line (queue) of tourists going around the monument clockwise or counter-clockwise. Here you get a choice – which direction to go – but you can’t get any closer than about 50 yards. At certain times of the year (equinox and solstice, etc.) one can get a special ticket that gets them into the circle of stones, but you have to reserve it months or years in advance and pay a hefty price for it.

The closest village or town to Stonehenge is Salisbury, which seems to have a couple claims to fame. First is the HUGE cathedral (seat of a bishop or archbishop), but the second is much more exciting, at least to me.

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Salisbury also has one of only four copies of the Magna Carta, signed on June 17, 1215 by 25 English barons, forcing King John to give the populace basic human rights. They were severely punished by the church and the king for taking their stand.

Cyndie and I both have several of the Surety Barons and signatories of the Magna Carta in our lineages, making Salisbury a key stop on our itinerary.

Day 11 – Sligo, Ireland to Northern Ireland

Donegal, Ireland is on the other side of the peninsula from Sligo, and has more “history” than Sligo. Our first stop was the Donegal Famine Cemetery, a small plot of land near the river to enshrine those who perished in the Potato Famine of 1846-47. This single event caused more Irish emigration to the United States than any other in history. Families today speak of those who left and were never seen or heard from again after going to America. The interesting thing in this cemetery is the lack of headstones – this was a mass grave!

Donegal also has a significant role in the history of the royal family and the church. Built in 1474, the castle was occupied until the 1700’s, and then lay dormant until taken over by the country in the 1990’s and rebuilt. St. Patrick’s Church is a Catholic church named after the patron saint of Ireland.

Horses, cows and sheep are found on the farms in southern Ireland. Sheep become the animal of choice, and farms begin to spring up as you travel north. This time of year, the greening of the various plants brings subtle changes to the landscape each day.

The number one tourist attraction for many years in Northern Ireland has been the Giant’s Causeway. The Antrim Coast provided the perfect location for Finn MacCool to built a stone causeway from Northern Ireland to Scotland. Ancient volcanic eruptions have resulted in geometrically-shaped basalt columns in a fairly small portion of the coastline. The scientific explanation makes sense, but that doesn’t take away any of the magic when you see it. The photos provided below are presented with no comments – enjoy them for what you feel them to be.

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“According to legend, the columns are the remains of a causeway built by a giant. The story goes that the Irish giant Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn MacCool), from the Fenian Cycle of Gaelic mythology, was challenged to a fight by the Scottish giant Benandonner. Fionn accepted the challenge and built the causeway across the North Channel so the two giants could meet. In one version of the story, Fionn defeats Benandonner. In another, Fionn hides from Benandonner when he realizes his foe is much bigger than he. Fionn’s wife, Oonagh, disguises Fionn as a baby and tucks him in a cradle. When Benandonner sees the size of the ‘baby’, he reckons that its father, Fionn, must be a giant among giants. He flees back to Scotland in fright, destroying the causeway behind him so Fionn could not follow. Across the sea, there are identical basalt columns (a part of the same ancient lava flow) at Fingal’s Cave on the Scottish isle of Staffa, and it is possible that the story was influenced by this.”

To end the day before our dinner and last pint of the day, we visited Dunluce Castle, west of Bushmill. Dunluce, we are told, is a featured location in Game of Thrones. For me, it was another awakening, of sorts. Owners over the years included the Earls of Antrim, including the 5th Earl in the late-1700’s. A signboard at the castle gave me the name of the 5th Earl of Antrim in my personal database, previously called “UNK 5th of Antrim” and allowed me to identify his wife, as well, through Wikitree. I have added research into the Earls of Antrim to my To Do List, now that I also have links to them.

Day 8 – Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

Not to be missed as you travel north in County Clare toward Galway, one of the larger cities in Ireland, the Cliffs of Moher is the number one site for nature-based tourism in the country. There is a walking path and numerous observation points along the tops of each peninsula. One ends with a square fire tower built by Napoleon, while the other has a castle-like tower called O’Brien’s Tower (there’s that ancestral name again!). When the weather is bad in the Atlantic on its way to Ireland, the Cliffs are the first to experience any major problems, acting as a sort of early warning system.

Just as an aside, the toilets (restrooms to us) are UNISEX. It’s a bit unnerving to enter a bathroom and wait for a woman to come out. There are no wall urinals, and the stall doors go down to a few inches off the floor, but those are the only differences you notice. Looking for “Ladies” or “Gents” and finding “Unisex” is quite a surprise, no matter where you’re from.
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Day 7 – Booleens, Castlemaine to Galway, Irelandn

The B&B we stayed in when we traveled the Ring of Kerry yesterday would have been ideal for a trip around the Dingle Peninsula just to the north. Alas, our time didn’t allow a trip on both. We did get a special thrill, however, when we met and talked with Florence O’Sullivan, a 4th Generation blacksmith. Most of my bachelor’s degree was in metalworking, including forging, welding, heat treating, tool making, and similar skills, and then I taught all of those, and more, for over 20 years.

Florence has been at it since age 16, and is still going strong (although slower) in his early ninetie’s! Sad to say, there is no 5th Generation in the O’Sullivan family.

My great-grandfather was a blacksmith in Germany when he emigrated to America during the mid-1860’s. He was a jack-of-all-trades and made a comparatively good living for an immigrant with eight children.

The owner of The Anvil B&B became a friend in our two days there. Liz has owned the B&B nearly 20 years, and now she and her son run the bar and restaurant together. Even in the Spring, a supposedly slow time for tourism, she is full or nearly so every night.

Leaving Booleans, we headed for Limerick, Ireland, the second time we drove on an Irish Motorway. Not quite an Interstate highway, but better than the average road, the most interesting feature is that you drive for dozens of miles and pay 1.90 Euros (about $2.00) at the end. The normal section of E-470 we drive fairly often costs $2.90, but only covers about 8 miles. There’s something wrong here!

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The Bunratty Castle today is actually the fourth incantation of castle on or near the site. Originally a Viking encampment destroyed by Brian Boru, an early Irish king and an O’Brien ancestor, it was owned at various times by the MacDonald’s, MacCarthy’s, O’Briens (twice – note the three lions on the shields below), and for centuries was the seat of the Earl of Thomond. Given to the de Clare family (also ancestors) by King Richard III of England (another ancestor), it fell into disrepair when the last family moved into a new manor house. Eventually, the castle and property were taken over by an Irish national trust.

It’s uniqueness lies in the fact that all furnishings in the castle date from the 15th Century and are authentic to the period, if not to the castle itself. There is also a typical village of the time with several buildings set up to show how life was conducted back then.