Day 13 – Belfast, Northern Ireland

Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland, suffered the worst of “The Troubles,” the well-known conflict between the Protestants and Catholics in Ireland. Over several decades, more than 3000 people from both sides died. To the outsider, the animosity between the two groups is not seen, but to older Belfast residents, the causes remain just under the surface. At the time of the so-called ceasefire, a wall was constructed between the Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods. One section, over 1,000 feet long, is called the Peace Wall and is covered with dozens of hand-painted murals, one of the main attractions for tourists. Another landmark of The Troubles is the Hotel Europa, arguably the most-bombed building in the world, the victim of nearly 40 explosions over the years.

Prosperity seems to be everywhere, with cranes visible all over the city and all phases of construction evident. The Victorian tower with the copper spire is the hallmark of a new indoor shopping mall. The newest and best sit side-by-side with 18th Century beauties like Queen Victoria’s Opera House below. The tallest Celtic Cross in the world is on a church, with a modern stainless steel spire just as tall as the cross. And, yet, other salvageable and historic buildings in the city wait for someone to care about them and re-build.

While we waited downtown for a tour bus, a Catholic parade scheduled for mid-morning generated an enormous amount of police presence to counter any Protestant violence that might erupt. In all, around 40 marchers and 10 protesters showed up, outnumbered several times by police and anti-terrorism forces.

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In an earlier post from Galway, I mentioned the “Euro and a half” store, similar to our dollar stores. Not to be outdone, the Belfasters have their own version, poundworld.

If you haven’t noticed yet, we love castles! Belfast was no exception, and had a beautiful castle and an attached garden that rivals some of the best in the world.

Tomorrow is a travel day between Belfast and Dublin, and nothing looks too exciting on the maps, so probably no big assortment of pictures. After a day wandering around Dublin, though, I’m sure we’ll have something to show you. The day after that, we’re off to London! Stay tuned!

Day 12 – Northern Ireland

Instead of traveling straight to Belfast on an interior road, we decided to meander along the water and explore the rest of the Antrim Coast. Along the way, at a small town named Cushendall, we ran across a small cemetery across the street from the docks. Dates easily went back to the mid-1800’s, and also included a few newer ones. I love old cemeteries, maybe because my paternal grandparents, great-grandparents, and a few great aunts and uncles are buried in Riverside Cemetery in Commerce City.

If you can connect a person with a particular event, era or period in history, their life becomes fascinating, no matter how mundane it really may have been. I have transcribed tombstones and taken photographs, but I have never taken rubbings of them. This particular cemetery shows a lot of damage from the wind and blowing rain and salt water spray on some of the sandstone tombstones. Vital information is now, in many cases, lost forever. Cemetery records are, of course, only a part of the information a Genealogist attempts to collect on a person, but oftentimes that is all that is available to provide clue where else to look.

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Now we are in Belfast at a beautiful B&B with a huge room to spread out our bags and begin to re-pack a bit for our trip to London next week. We have purchased gifts and other items that must be carried, and we were already close to our weight limits.

Day 9 – Galway, Ireland

One of the main attractions to Galway, the largest western city in Ireland, is the shopping. City fathers have gone to great pains making it easy, and have blocked off several blocks in the City Centre as a pedestrian zone. A three-story inside shopping mall anchors the Eyre Square, and several streets with large and small shops snake out from there.

Back to bathrooms (restrooms, toilets, john, whatever…..) for a moment. At several locations in the shopping zone, we found turnstiles on the way to the facilities, each charging 20 cents Euro to pass. This particular one was in the bus station, but another one in the shopping mall had several people ready to rise up and protest. Lousy public relations for a shopping mall owner!

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Day 6 – Killarney, Ireland and the Ring of Kerry

To do the Ring of Kerry “right,” according to the locals, you have to begin at Killorglin and go clockwise around the peninsula. Much of the way, you will parallel the Dingle Peninsula just to the north. At the bottom of the peninsula, life becomes much harder for the local inhabitants. Small, rocky islands appear off the coast, rocks begin to jut out of the mountains themselves, and the whole area takes on a much wilder appearance, which is why the area is known as the Wild Atlantic Way.

Until we priced them, we had considered “caravaning” across Ireland. We have seen several caravan parks (rv parks) around Ireland as we’ve traveled, but there is not a big rv population like there is in the states, at least in Ireland. The roads (width, condition, etc.) all play a part in how people caravan. The park below was owned by a large bar/restaurant at the bottom of the country, but most of the caravans (what we would call trailers) were brought in for the season, set up and leveled, and destined to be rented out. Other options are small modular buildings of all kinds that can be moved to a location and set up as a home. Most of the time, the caravaners fare better than the family who built their own castle in the wilderness, only to lose it to a major fire.

There was one particular section between Kenmare and Killarney that could fit into almost any road in the Colorado mountains once you left the pavement. We felt right at home, even with the tours buses forcing the caravans to hug the walls of the hills as they drove through. I think Cyndie has some pictures of a couple of those.

Ross Castle in Killarney is another castle being slowly brought back to life by the government. Originally owned by the O’Donoghue Mor (Ross) family in the 15th Century, it is now a major feature of Killarney National Park and is owned by Ireland. It sits on the bank of a huge lake fed by a large river.

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Day 5 – Cork to Killarney, Ireland – Blarney Castle

The Blarney Castle is in a beautiful setting just a few minutes north of Cork. One kisses the Blarney Stone to eloquence in speech, but after all those years in education, I just kissed for the fun of it. After a long climb to the top of the castle up a very narrow and slippery staircase, you lay on your back and lean backwards with the help of a person who wants to sell you a photo of you doing it. (photo later of me kissing it!)

To kiss the REAL Blarney Stone, however, you would have to be hung by your heels on the outside of the parapet, instead. I like the modern version better!

Graffiti aging back over several centuries can be found on the inside of the castle walls. Outside, the parapets now protect visitors to the Poison Garden from the high cliffs overlooking the moat, long dried up.

 
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Day 4 – Cork to Skibbereen, Ireland

The Drombeg Stone Circle is an early site on a smaller scale than Stonehenge, but with much the same purposes. It is one of many such sites throughout the country that have dated back to the 4th Century and later, probably Druid or Pict. Several families used this site for several years. Visitors today have established their own small altar in the center of the circle.

Charles Fort is one of a few unique military installations built in a star shape. The other thing that makes the fort unique is that was built on a peninsula at the entrance to the harbor of Kinsale, Ireland, at the south end of the country on the Atlantic Ocean. Used several hundred years through several wars, it was decommissioned after Work War I and became a hippie commune in the 1970’s, before being taken over by the country as a monument.

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