Day 8 – Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

Not to be missed as you travel north in County Clare toward Galway, one of the larger cities in Ireland, the Cliffs of Moher is the number one site for nature-based tourism in the country. There is a walking path and numerous observation points along the tops of each peninsula. One ends with a square fire tower built by Napoleon, while the other has a castle-like tower called O’Brien’s Tower (there’s that ancestral name again!). When the weather is bad in the Atlantic on its way to Ireland, the Cliffs are the first to experience any major problems, acting as a sort of early warning system.

Just as an aside, the toilets (restrooms to us) are UNISEX. It’s a bit unnerving to enter a bathroom and wait for a woman to come out. There are no wall urinals, and the stall doors go down to a few inches off the floor, but those are the only differences you notice. Looking for “Ladies” or “Gents” and finding “Unisex” is quite a surprise, no matter where you’re from.
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Day 7 – Booleens, Castlemaine to Galway, Irelandn

The B&B we stayed in when we traveled the Ring of Kerry yesterday would have been ideal for a trip around the Dingle Peninsula just to the north. Alas, our time didn’t allow a trip on both. We did get a special thrill, however, when we met and talked with Florence O’Sullivan, a 4th Generation blacksmith. Most of my bachelor’s degree was in metalworking, including forging, welding, heat treating, tool making, and similar skills, and then I taught all of those, and more, for over 20 years.

Florence has been at it since age 16, and is still going strong (although slower) in his early ninetie’s! Sad to say, there is no 5th Generation in the O’Sullivan family.

My great-grandfather was a blacksmith in Germany when he emigrated to America during the mid-1860’s. He was a jack-of-all-trades and made a comparatively good living for an immigrant with eight children.

The owner of The Anvil B&B became a friend in our two days there. Liz has owned the B&B nearly 20 years, and now she and her son run the bar and restaurant together. Even in the Spring, a supposedly slow time for tourism, she is full or nearly so every night.

Leaving Booleans, we headed for Limerick, Ireland, the second time we drove on an Irish Motorway. Not quite an Interstate highway, but better than the average road, the most interesting feature is that you drive for dozens of miles and pay 1.90 Euros (about $2.00) at the end. The normal section of E-470 we drive fairly often costs $2.90, but only covers about 8 miles. There’s something wrong here!

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The Bunratty Castle today is actually the fourth incantation of castle on or near the site. Originally a Viking encampment destroyed by Brian Boru, an early Irish king and an O’Brien ancestor, it was owned at various times by the MacDonald’s, MacCarthy’s, O’Briens (twice – note the three lions on the shields below), and for centuries was the seat of the Earl of Thomond. Given to the de Clare family (also ancestors) by King Richard III of England (another ancestor), it fell into disrepair when the last family moved into a new manor house. Eventually, the castle and property were taken over by an Irish national trust.

It’s uniqueness lies in the fact that all furnishings in the castle date from the 15th Century and are authentic to the period, if not to the castle itself. There is also a typical village of the time with several buildings set up to show how life was conducted back then.