Day 6 – Killarney, Ireland and the Ring of Kerry

To do the Ring of Kerry “right,” according to the locals, you have to begin at Killorglin and go clockwise around the peninsula. Much of the way, you will parallel the Dingle Peninsula just to the north. At the bottom of the peninsula, life becomes much harder for the local inhabitants. Small, rocky islands appear off the coast, rocks begin to jut out of the mountains themselves, and the whole area takes on a much wilder appearance, which is why the area is known as the Wild Atlantic Way.

Until we priced them, we had considered “caravaning” across Ireland. We have seen several caravan parks (rv parks) around Ireland as we’ve traveled, but there is not a big rv population like there is in the states, at least in Ireland. The roads (width, condition, etc.) all play a part in how people caravan. The park below was owned by a large bar/restaurant at the bottom of the country, but most of the caravans (what we would call trailers) were brought in for the season, set up and leveled, and destined to be rented out. Other options are small modular buildings of all kinds that can be moved to a location and set up as a home. Most of the time, the caravaners fare better than the family who built their own castle in the wilderness, only to lose it to a major fire.

There was one particular section between Kenmare and Killarney that could fit into almost any road in the Colorado mountains once you left the pavement. We felt right at home, even with the tours buses forcing the caravans to hug the walls of the hills as they drove through. I think Cyndie has some pictures of a couple of those.

Ross Castle in Killarney is another castle being slowly brought back to life by the government. Originally owned by the O’Donoghue Mor (Ross) family in the 15th Century, it is now a major feature of Killarney National Park and is owned by Ireland. It sits on the bank of a huge lake fed by a large river.

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Day 5 – Cork to Killarney, Ireland – Blarney Castle

The Blarney Castle is in a beautiful setting just a few minutes north of Cork. One kisses the Blarney Stone to eloquence in speech, but after all those years in education, I just kissed for the fun of it. After a long climb to the top of the castle up a very narrow and slippery staircase, you lay on your back and lean backwards with the help of a person who wants to sell you a photo of you doing it. (photo later of me kissing it!)

To kiss the REAL Blarney Stone, however, you would have to be hung by your heels on the outside of the parapet, instead. I like the modern version better!

Graffiti aging back over several centuries can be found on the inside of the castle walls. Outside, the parapets now protect visitors to the Poison Garden from the high cliffs overlooking the moat, long dried up.

 
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Day 4 – Cork to Skibbereen, Ireland

The Drombeg Stone Circle is an early site on a smaller scale than Stonehenge, but with much the same purposes. It is one of many such sites throughout the country that have dated back to the 4th Century and later, probably Druid or Pict. Several families used this site for several years. Visitors today have established their own small altar in the center of the circle.

Charles Fort is one of a few unique military installations built in a star shape. The other thing that makes the fort unique is that was built on a peninsula at the entrance to the harbor of Kinsale, Ireland, at the south end of the country on the Atlantic Ocean. Used several hundred years through several wars, it was decommissioned after Work War I and became a hippie commune in the 1970’s, before being taken over by the country as a monument.

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Day 3 – Waterford to Cork, Ireland

Slightly north and west of Waterford is the small village of Carrick-on-Suir, the home of Ormond Castle. Built before 1315, the castle was the seat of the Earl of Ormond, the Butler family. The manor house was built after 1565, but the castle was closed in 1688 when the last Earl died. Ireland eventually took over the property and renovated it. New renovations, centering around safety issues, are currently underway.

Near the castle was our first experience with  what we have found are now good examples of “typical” Irish village streets. Traffic laws, in general, are much more lax than we have in the States, and parking regulations are almost non-existent, with cars and trucks parked in any direction, at corners near intersections, halfway on the curb, and even on medians between driving lanes, if so desired. These two photos happen to be one-way streets; imagine two-way traffic on the same type of streets!

Out in the Irish countryside, some of the views are breathtaking. Even on cloudy days, the distance you can see is amazing. The mountains and hills seem so majestic, then you remind yourself they are only a few hundred feet high.

The Irish are great bikers, hikers and walkers. So much, in fact, that trails are created by the county and or nation, and supplemented with parks and green spaces to make them more desireable.

Even in the country, roads can be narrow. If you look closely at the photo, you will see damage to each corner of the buildings and walls.

Ahenny Crosses in the small village of Ahenny is now a national monument. Built in 1843, it has tombstones and crosses that have not weathered well, with most of the lettering indistinguishable. The graveyard is out in the corner of a large field that cattle graze in.

Also in Ahenny is a good example of “typical” Irish housing. Each colored door indicates a different “cottage” home in the same building. Such homes are surprisingly common throughout the towns and villages. Many are probably less than 500 sq. ft., with the majority less than 1,000 sq. ft.

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The Rock of Cashel is located in Cashel, Ireland. Originally the seat of power in Ireland from the 4th Century onward, the country was ruled first by the McCartheys and later by the O’Briens. The O’Briens are the early ancestors of my McMahons, and descend from Brian Boru, the first King of Ireland.

Around the 11th Century, the Rock was given to the Church, which built the cathedral as it currently exists. Parts of the complex show up in various parts of the town, so modern buildings have attached themselves to walls and auxiliary buildings still standing.

The cross in the two photos below is known as the “St. Patrick Cross,” supposedly given to the church when he preached there.

Cork is an old city with large-river access to the Atlantic Ocean. This is the view of the railway terminal from our window at the B&B we stayed at, along with the other buildings in the city. The city itself is undergoing a resurgance, so there is a mix new and old, clean and dirty, well-maintained vs. ramshackle. We had a very nice room in an updated three-story hotel, while two blocks to the north down by the docks, trains and buses resumed their schedules after their recent strike, cranes loaded ocean-going ships with huge bales of textile, offices shed their well-dressed workers, and students in the colleges near the river ended their day. People were everywhere, on foot, on bicycles, on scooters, going everywhere, all at the same time.